When you read a pattern or hold a new yarn in your hand, the jargon shows up quickly. What does superwash mean? Why do some yarns pill more than others? And what is the difference between woolen-spun and worsted-spun? Here we collect the yarn and knitting terms that often cause confusion and explain them in plain English.
We add new terms over time. You can read the glossary from start to finish or jump straight to the term you are wondering about.
Yarn and knitting terms
What is held-together knitting?
Held-together means that you knit with two or more strands at once, as if they were a single yarn. The technique is used to create an effect you cannot get from a single strand, for example a soft mohair halo over a firmer wool base, or a thicker yarn made from two thinner strands. Two strands of fingering roughly equal DK, and two strands of DK roughly equal worsted or aran.
When you combine yarns, each strand contributes something different to the finished fabric. The base strand gives structure and strength, while a brushed strand such as mohair adds surface texture and warmth. It is a good idea to knit a swatch with the full combination, since two strands together behave differently than each strand on its own.
What is the difference between woolen-spun and worsted-spun yarn?
The difference lies in how the fibres are prepared before spinning, and it has a big effect on how the yarn looks and behaves. In worsted spinning the fibres are combed so they lie parallel. That gives a smooth, dense yarn with sharp stitch definition, which is good for cables and texture patterns.
In woolen spinning the fibres are carded so they lie in different directions and trap air. That gives a lighter, warmer yarn with a slightly fuzzy surface and more bloom, so the stitches look a little less crisp. Woolen-spun wool is often a strong choice for colourwork, because the fibres grip one another and the colours blend more softly. Many Icelandic yarns are woolen-spun.
What does superwash mean for a yarn?
Superwash is wool that has been chemically treated so the small scales on the fibres are removed, smoothed or covered by a thin polymer layer. That makes the yarn machine washable, because the fibres no longer felt together. For baby clothes, machine washability can be a decisive practical property.
The treatment also changes how the yarn behaves. Superwash wool is often smoother and has reduced elasticity, and it can stretch lengthwise after washing, so your gauge after washing can end up looser than expected. For colourwork the fibres do not grip one another as well, so untreated wool gives a denser result. Superwash wool, on the other hand, often takes dye very clearly, which is why hand-dyed colours and speckles can look cleaner and more defined.
What is drape in knitting?
Drape is the way a knitted fabric falls and moves when it hangs. It depends first and foremost on the fibres and on how elastic the yarn is.
Cotton and linen often give a heavy, vertical fall, where the fabric hangs straight down and moves a little. A fluid fall comes from silk and alpaca, where the fabric glides and the individual stitches can move. An airy fall comes from mohair held double or from brushed yarn, where the fabric becomes light and almost floats. Elastic wool gives less drape and more structure, which is why ribbing and cables look great in wool but collapse in cotton or alpaca.
What is pilling, and why do some yarns pill more than others?
Pilling is the small balls of fibre that form on the surface of a knitted fabric when short fibre ends work their way out and tangle together. How much a yarn pills depends mainly on four things: how many plies the yarn is made of, how it is spun, how long the fibres are, and how tightly it is twisted.
The risk is highest in yarns that are single-ply, woolen-spun, made from short fibres and loosely twisted. It is lowest in yarns with more plies, worsted spinning, long fibres and tight twist. Sock yarn, for example, is often four-ply and tightly twisted, because it has to withstand wear.
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Nysta starts from your actual stash and matches it with the patterns you can knit. When you register a yarn, the app fills in technical details such as weight category, gauge, yardage and fibre content when data is available. If you have an unidentifiable leftover, Nysta guides you through a series of simple visual steps so the app can estimate the yarn’s properties.
Frequently asked questions
What does held together mean in knitting? Held together means that you knit with two or more strands at once, as if they were a single yarn. It is used to reach a thicker weight or to lay a soft companion strand such as mohair over a firmer base.
What is the difference between woolen-spun and worsted-spun? In worsted spinning the fibres are combed so they lie parallel and give a smooth, dense yarn with sharp stitch definition. In woolen spinning the fibres are carded so they trap air and give a lighter, warmer yarn with more bloom.
What does superwash mean? Superwash is wool that has been chemically treated so the scales on the fibres are removed, smoothed or covered. That makes the yarn machine washable, but reduces its elasticity and makes it less suited to colourwork.
Why do some yarns pill more than others? Pilling depends mainly on how many plies the yarn is made of, how it is spun, how long the fibres are, and how tightly it is twisted. Single-ply, woolen-spun yarn made from short fibres pills the most.
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